The guard chart

Numbers can vary a hair between brands, but these are the standard lengths. Knowing the mm is more useful than the number when you're talking to a barber who uses a different set.

  • Number 0.5 / 1.5~1.5 mm. Shadow of hair, scalp shows through. Almost a shave.
  • Number 13 mm. Very short. Skin visible in the light. Highest commitment buzz.
  • Number 26 mm. The classic buzz. Even, low-fuss, hairline still soft.
  • Number 310 mm. Short but clearly hair, not skin. The forgiving middle.
  • Number 413 mm. Long enough to comb a little. Reads as a short crop more than a buzz.

How to actually pick a number

If you've never buzzed before

Start at a 3 or 4. The clippers can always go shorter in the same sitting, but no one can add length back. A higher guard first lets you live with the look for a second before you commit to a closer one.

If you want the classic buzz

A 2 is the default for a reason: short and low-fuss without showing much scalp. It's the length most men picture when they say "buzz cut."

If you're heading toward a shave

A 1 or a half-guard gets you most of the shaved look while still being reversible. It's the honest test before a razor — see should I shave my head? for the full gut-check.

One length all over, or a fade?

A guard number is a single length. If you want it shorter as it goes down — tighter at the neckline and ears — that's a taper or fade, a separate instruction. Plenty of buzz cuts pair a 3 or 4 on top with a faded edge for a sharper finish. If that's what you're after, say both: the top guard and "faded at the sides." Taper vs fade explained.

Hairline and head shape change the maths

A lower guard means less contrast against a receding hairline — which is often whya buzz works — but it also shows the scalp and any dents more. A 2 or 3 is the usual safe middle for a first buzz with a higher hairline. There's no magic number, though; it's your head, so look at it first. (Buzz cut with a receding hairline: does it work?)

Don't guess the guard. See the length on your own face before the clippers come out.

Preview a buzz on your own face

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